Archive Page 74

Arrived

I am back in Burkina, after a not too strenuous trip, even with my tendinitis brace. In Paris I saw my name on a TV screen which I hoped, and indeed was, a slight movement forward, from the main cabin to Premium Economy, which is like a mini business class – a smaller version of the fancy B-class seat, an amenities pouch of a slightly inferior quality and content than the B-class one, and a little cone with French regional ‘friandises,’ all high sugar content, which I munched down immediately after having deliberately stayed away from sugar the entire week.

Given that I have a very expensive ticket, over 3000 dollars, the upgrade felt more like an entitlement than a nice geste from Air France.

In Ouaga I was helped with my carry-on by a nice American gentleman whom, with many others from the US military, had come to Ouaga for some training or other, presumably to stop the advances of insurgents in the region. It is quiet military preparedness action, it seems, that doesn’t get any media coverage as there is nothing acute and newsworthy going on here at the moment.

At the hotel, a different one from the not so good experience at Palm Beach last time, was pretty much the same, room and general ambiance wise; except the staff was nicer and more attentive. They had prepared a room with a mosquito net which is not standard issue here in this country where malaria is endemic after we had made a special request.

Unfortunately I could not have a mosquito net AND internet connection which seemed like an unfair choice. In the end, the need to be connected to the world and talk with Axel prevailed and I declined the moustiquaire; instead I cranked up the airco which is about as good as if not better than a mosquito net.

It is Ramadan in the Moslem world. I am always surprised that in places like this that are mixed Moslem/Christian, food places are closed during the day, including the little cafeteria at the airport where I had planned to get a coffee and a croissant, given that I had no dinner last night nor breakfast as I left the hotel too early. Even the little pain au chocolat served on the plane to Bobo last time were withheld. I gather it is a business decision but it feels unfair to us non-fasters. So I keep nibbling on the cookies and chocolates brought with me from the AF lounge in Paris, not a great diet after my week of eating well.

I called the driver who had served me so well last time and he picked me up in a car driven by what looked like a younger relative who was just learning to drive. The young man made demi-tour on the otherwise empty road in front of the hotel and just barely missed hitting the only other car on the road. The back of the car, since I had last seen it, was all dented and the boot didn’t lock anymore. I suppose these were the results of the new driver experience. I was dismayed to find out that the young driver was taking me to the airport (only 10 minutes away and in a city still mostly asleep) as my driver said, “je vais me reposer un peu ici.”

My young driver must have gotten a talking to by his dad or uncle because he drove to the airport at a snail’s pace. This made me feel even more uncomfortable. But he was trying hard and super concentrated. The back of his T-shirt said something else worrisome; some quote from Ezekiel that hinted at being happier once reunited with those who had already passed into the afterlife.

Bobo on Sunday morning was as dead as one could expect on a Ramadan weekend but the hotel restaurant was open and serving breakfast. There was even a mango and an orange to make up for the horrible diet of the last 24 hours.

Three young boys were the only other guests in the restaurant. The smallest, about Faro’s age, was clad in only a T-shirt, bottoms bare; he kept fumbling his privates and then headed for the small case were the bread and croissants were stored. I was glad he couldn’t figure out how to open it, as there was no one supervising the kid; it didn’t seem like his older brothers (not that much older) noticed that there was something not quite right about the situation as the little man’s hands moved back and forth between his privates and the breakfast fare (on his own table).

Transits

The week that started with a funeral ended with a wedding amidst the bees and the birds and the flowers and the trees of the horticultural society in Wellesley.

In between these two events I had my left wrist injected with cortisone to put an end to a debilitating tendinitis. The cortisone will kick in, according to the hand doctor, by the time I reach Ouagadougou. This means I am
traveling there with my left hand in the old brace, leftover from the carpal tunnel period fixed in Dubai several years ago. The brace helps to solicit assistance heaving my carry-on wheelie in the overhead bin. It worked beautifully and even kept the seat on my left unoccupied on the first leg of my trip.

I am leaving what is New England at one of its best periods: warm, the water swimmable (which few people would ever call warm), lobsters for dinner, crabs jostling into our traps, raspberries ready and a vegetables garden overflowing with greens, while the tomatoes and potatoes are readying themselves for our dinner table. And then little Faro never more than 3 hours away; his new yellow crocs awaiting him to be tested out in lobster cove alongside his Opa who also got new yellow crocs.

And here I am once again in a plane, once again on my way to Francophone Africa, to add my contributions to those who are advocating for better leadership, management and governance of health programs in West Africa.

Dinner

The team I helped to set on its leadership development course less than 2 months ago in Cote d’Ivoire is doing the second workshop in the series of 4 on its own. I am in frequent contact with the team and marvel at their enthusiasm. Despite being in a place with poor internet connections, they insisted I be part of the workshop.

After trying various ways to connect we finally settled on Skype and I found myself live in the workshop, presumably projected on a screen and with my voice amplified. It is weird to be in a workshop and yet not – they could see me but I was looking at my own video picture – remembering to look at the camera on top of my screen rather than the screen itself. I received the beloved West African clap (someone hollers ‘triplet’ which is followed by three small claps and one thunderous one with hands pushing the clap to the object of the clap) – twice even. I received them with a smile, knowing I was on camera. I am awed, amazed and honored by the way this community has boarded the leadership train.

I left work early to enjoy Lobster Cove on another beautiful summer day, before heading out into the steamy Sahel on Friday. Axel had not checked the lobster traps yet, which he had baited with the remains of the 40 pound striper. His 12 foot dory isn’t quite made for two adults and hauling in lobster pots– he usually does the lobstering on his own – but I decided to be his lobstering mate, more ballast than help. The ocean was choppy with big swells, which made for good exercise for Axel the rower. His months of exercise at the gym are paying off. It felt great to be out on the water and I counted my blessings – what a place to come home to.

Four of the five traps contained only undersize lobsters which we threw back to grow some more, replacing the two day old striper bait with freshly caught and still bloody herring. Wondering what we would have for dinner we hauled in the last trap which contained it: 3 lobsters, two of them a pound and a half. It is the time of the year when lobster start to molt, shedding their old hard shell and growing a new one that is soft for a while. For this they come in closer to shore.

One of the large lobsters still had a very hard shell, which required a hammer to open; the other large one had just molted and thus had a very soft shell. It splashed liquid all over me after it was cooked. We didn’t touch the third one yet; it is neither hard nor soft.

The perfect day was completed with a massage by our friend Abi who worked hard on my sore foot – the healing process of my ankle seems to have stopped for a while, even made a turn for worse. I have picked up my PT exercises again which seems to help a bit. I was told by the orthopede’s assistant that it is not unusual for such regressions, what with the other joints and muscles having to work harder with the main joint being fused. It may be the equivalent of a strike, a protest against the extra work.

Goodbyes

We had caught many crabs in Axel’s new trap, with the tailfin of the 40 pound striper as bait. But the crabs are smart, especially the larger ones. One of them opened the hatch and all but the small ones escaped after having filled their bellies with decomposing striper meat, yum.

We returned the trap to the middle of the cove and caught another load. There is no lack of green crabs in our cove, which we already knew as the new generation of mussels have been eaten, leaving us with the same elderly mussels and thus diminishing returns. I suppose that eating the crabs is just another way of enjoying our mussels, a second hand way.

Steve and Tessa cleaned up the estate, we had one more meal, using up the leftovers from the party and then we parted. It was a wonderful celebratory weekend. Steve brought the crab trap up and I turned the inhabitants into crab bisque, an improvised soup that included all the vegetables in the refrigerator that needed to be put out of their suffering. It came out perfect and will feed us for a few days.

In the afternoon we went to the funeral service for Sita’s friend Shelby. It brought together the old high school group of friends, uncomfortable in their funeral attire and still grieving deeply about one more friend who was no longer there. It was a very Catholic service which to some was soothing and to me a source of distraction. The language was about joy and hope and reuniting with Christ; the imagery of sitting at the same table as God. It doesn’t work for me but I can see how these beliefs can be a comfort to others. Knowing Shelby I imagined her looking down and giggling about all the hooplala.

After the service there was the cemetery and then the Franco-American club where food and drink awaited us. Sita and Jim had driven out and parked Faro at his grannie; so we didn’t get to see him. His presence might have lightened up the mood but he was napping, saving the mood for later during the long ride back home.

Shelby was an artist and a very creative mind. Her portfolios were on display and her mom and I shook our heads, acknowledging how death is such a waste of talent.

Silent Disco and stripers

A hurricane’s passing east of us produced a lot of rain on the 3rd and 4th of July. For the first time in years it wasn’t sweltering hot during the 4th of July parade and for the first time in years we weren’t even there to witness it. Axel had promised Sita and Jim we would babysit while they made music with many other bands and friends in the afternoon of the fourth. And so we drove out to western Massachusetts on the 3rd and passed the 4th as if it was an ordinary day, made extraordinary by being in the presence of our grandson. We are now teaching him where Ouagadougou is – after a little thinking he responds, Burkina (we dropped the Faso part to keep it simple, not wanting to overtax the developing synapses). By the time he is 6 he should have the map of Africa in his head!

When we returned home the preparations for Tessa’s annual beach birthday bash were in full swing. It is now the fifth year of the Silent Disco as the center piece of the celebration. Tessa made a special sweatshirt, reminiscent of Endless Summer with its yellow, pink and orange hues and SDbTS V printed in between the lobster claws (Silent Disco by the Sea, 5th year). Silent disco allows for a dance party with a DJ but without disturbing the neighbors, as the music is only heard through headphones. It’s one of those party innovations that makes so much sense – one can dance to loud music and then have a quite conversation just by removing the headphones.

While Tessa’s party was starting with people tricking in from noon onwards, we dressed up to go to Axel’s 50th high school reunion. He is considered part of the class even though he left before graduation. It was a bittersweet affair, with happy reunions and sad tales of loss of life partners and health. The goodbyes were particularly difficult as everyone knew some people would not be there for the next reunion.

Back at home the pace of the party had picked up. There was much coming and going all through the day, the night and even the next day. This is a party that looks like a bell curve, with the top of the bell curve somewhere between 10 PM and noon the next day. When the weather is as perfect as it was this weekend, the party goes on until it is over. Now, on Monday morning, one more tent remains, with two occupants who really know how to party.

On Sunday morning, one hour before dead low tide, two friends of Tessa went out in a canoe and caught a 5 feet striper. The striper did not give up the fight easily, capsized the boat and broke the rod. The capsized boat also contained an iPhone, a camera and another rod. All were retrieved later except for the iPhone which is now, I suppose, a curiosity for the creatures on the ocean floor.

The story of the fish, and the fish itself, were shared for the rest of the day. Last year a large striper was also caught, so this is now the new tradition, and although the process by which the fish was caught was a little scary, we hope Tessa’s fishing friends will continue the tradition. Fish cooked on the grill at the beach, along with bacon and eggs, made for a nice morning-after breakfast.

Blessings

I am back at work after a wonderful few days at home with my family. It is a bit of a slow time, with deliverables delivered from the previous assignments and the next one, though only 9 days away, not ready for action yet.

I am taking care of small bits and pieces of work, promises I made and trying to refresh my memory of how to work a database that has been languishing since before Afghanistan because of a false move between computers. No database expert has been able to help me so far so I think I am going to return to my notes from an internet course, more than a decade ago, given by our local community college.

One of the more difficult bits and pieces on my to do list is writing a letter in support of an Afghan colleague who is applying for a visa to the US because he has received threats that make living in Afghanistan increasingly dangerous; something about kidnappings and kidnappers being killed and revenge. I realize how lucky I am to live in a place that has a functioning legal system, recourse for wrongful actions and some basic protections. He has none of that, in spite of the billions of dollars that we have poured into Afghanistan. Such basic stuff that we take for granted.

I look out of the window and count my blessings: green, sun, water, a good job here, and 30 miles to the north more of that.

One of those blessings is Tessa who arrived on July 2nd 29 years ago. I remember the day like yesterday. First there were the croissants that Axel had intended to crisp in oven of the birth center. But the oven was defective and it went into self-cleaning mode which means the oven locks and heats till 500 degrees. It brought the fire trucks out instantly and was a nice distraction to the more and more sever contractions. It made for a memorable birth, as if one needs to be made more memorable.

That little redhead has now grown into a confident and competent 29 year old owner of a graphic design firm with an ever increasing cast of clients, engaged to a wonderful man and with two sweet dogs, our grand-dogs. What more could I wish?

The good and the sad

I came home to my favorite place and people of the world on what we call a 10+ day. And these days stayed through the weekend. But I also came home to the most devastating news that yet another very close friend of Sita had died. Thirteen years ago this scenario played out and now these wounds are ripped open again and we are once again grieving and wondering how all this could have happened again. This young woman too was an only child of a single mother and Sita and Jim, with their other friends have circled around her to lighten the load of dealing with the aftermath.

This was, with all the sadness, a bonus for me as I had not expected to see Sita, Jim and Faro this soon. They drove down to be with their friends who live near us, sharing their sadness and memories.

Faro, oblivious to all this, was in seventh heaven; having an opa and oma who have a beach and a whole ocean to play in, is his bonus. Axel and Faro walked the beach – a dream come true for Axel and a nice memory in the making for Faro. He is less interested in the crabs than in the stones – a whole beach full of stones that can be picked up and thrown to make a splash in the water. But then he got sick on Saturday and has kept us all busy since then; worried parents who never had a sick child, interrupted nights and a very unhappy child.

The weather has allowed us to find distraction in gardening. While I was away weeds had invaded the newly planted garden, overshadowing the seedlings of carrots, beets and chard. I spent about four hours on my knees pulling weeds, thinning the seedlings and removing the many volunteers that had picked some choice sunny spots. Axel worked on his boat so he can start putting out the lobster pots again.

To make the family fest complete, Tessa and Steve showed up with their two dogs and Axel put their bed together in the studio so they can now stay overnight. The cheap IKEA fold out we had bought for this purpose had chased them away – too hard and too short for long-legged Steve. I am anxiously awaiting whether the new arrangement, made from our old bed, was satisfactory.

We had a joyful dinner with everyone around the table, the center piece (for me at least) a huge salad of micro greens, results of the thinning process. The four carnivores in our family probably thought the sirloin and angus steaks were the center piece. It is so good to be home, even with all the worries and sadness.

Wrapping up and going home

My last few days in Kinshasa flew by – being a single facilitator of a process that usually takes two, kept me busy and on my toes. My colleagues stayed with the process till the end and produced their learning plan – an accomplishment that surprised them. Once again I am amazed how little of the facilitation techniques and methods that I use to get people to talk in groups about things that are important to them, gets out to the various corners of the world, whether Mongolia or the DRC.

In the closing session people indicated that they will incorporate some of the things they experienced and learned in their own sessions with people out in the health zones. I wish I could be a fly on the wall.

After Mongolia where I could not understand the language, nor read its (essentially Cyrillic) script it was wonderful and easy to be able to both read, understand and communicate with my colleagues without the interposition of an interpreter. But being alone I did not probe and question enough, I realized, as I was putting together the various sections of the plan they produced. Some entries now puzzle me. I suspect there will be several rounds of review and revision. The Afghanistan plan, after all, took about 6 months to finalize.

My exit from DRC showed me some of the chaos and ‘pagaille’ that I had been spared living in a luxury hotel and being driven to and from the office each day. The travel agent hired to get us in and out of the country, the one who didn’t show up on time when I arrived, took me through all the phases of the exit process, which was a good thing as little is obvious for a newbie like me. One can be denied boarding at the very last moment, when one is already checked out of the country by the Congolese officials, if proof of a particular tax cannot be produced. Luckily all my papers were in order and I got my seat in a jumbo that was filled to capacity with families, crying babies, missionaries, and God knows who else.

I had a short wait in Paris, enough for a shower, a more substantive breakfast than the one given on the plane and time to review a consultant’s report from Nigeria. That too showed that we have a long way to go from telling people what to do to having them draw on their own wisdom and wishes. They do this when we are not around but then we come in. We shake our heads about everything that is not up to our standards. And then we tell them what to do.

The last leg, although long, was easy with a coveted economy comfort seat and an open middle seat and a series of good movies. Watching three movies in a row makes a 7 hour flight easy.

Learning and writing

So far nothing has changed my positive impression of the DRC. I spent most of Saturday and Sunday preparing for the next event, taking a few naps and on Sunday afternoon a break at the pool. There was a soft breeze and the temperature was perfect. As soon as I sat down a waiter appeared with some snacks without hassling me about what I wanted to drink. I volunteered a local beer which came in an enormous bottle (Primus), plus more snacks. Of course nothing is free and I pay a premium for everything I consume in this posh hotel. A nine dollar beer and a 60 dollar tab for my evening meal that includes a buffet and a glass of South African wine is the going rate.

On Monday morning the driver from the office, Ali, picked me up and addressed me in perfect English. Unlike Cote d’Ivoire where there is great reluctance (and inability) to speak English, here many of the people I have met so far speak English. Ali’s English came from educational escapades all over the region. I asked how he got himself in, for example, the business school of Makerere University in Kampala. “I just managed,” he said. So this is the famous système ‘D’ ( for débrouillard) that I had heard so much about. When one lives in a situation of constant turbulence, and one where at one point (when I set foot across the border from Goma into what was then Zaire, 23 years ago) a few millions of the local currency bought nothing more than a small tube of toothpaste, one learns ‘to manage’ as Ali had done. He was used to be kicked out of one country and try his luck in another. He has degrees in business administration and mechanics – yet here he is our driver. I found similar underemployment in the assistant who has been assigned to help me – she has a degree in international law but is an office assistant.

Everyone is very eager to learn which omens well for the Learning Organization workshop. A group of professional staff took advantage of my presence and called an impromptu meeting to pick my brain about writing papers and proposals for conference presentations. I know how intimidating this kind of writing can be as I have been there myself. I suggested to start small and write for each other small pieces and then use Louise Dunlap’s process for providing feedback, the most positive and encouraging way I know of to help people get comfortable writing. Axel used her materials extensively in Kabul at SOLA while working with high school students on their essays.

Our office is in a very nice 5 story building where everything seems to work and the workspaces are clean and airy. Again, I had expected something not quite as together and am constantly surprised in a positive way. I am welcomed warmly by everyone and found everything ready for the workshop which starts today. I am glad this trip didn’t get canceled.

A new place

It doesn’t happen very often that I arrive in a new place, but this trip had two of them. My mind is swirling with first impressions. I wondered about my father’s experience some 60 years ago when he first arrived here as part of a 3 months Africa-breweries trip in 1954. I got his diary and postcards from that journey. The pictures are of a different time and place, colonial Léopoldville with its wide empty streets, clean colonial buildings, a few quaint looking buses and the occasional private car.

The company supposed to pick me up was not waiting for me as I had been told. After all that luck I could have expected some things not quite going according to plan. The Congolese were very solicitous of me, seeing that I had no one waiting fore me. I don’t think I have ever been to an airport were people were so friendly, concerned and where security was loose enough that people could act like people rather than officials assuming the worst in everyone. There was much laughing and joking. I took an instant liking this place.

Eventually my handler showed up after a friendly airport worker named Coco called his company on his cellphone. The driver had some lame and incomprehensible excuse about the delay having to do with problems with the MSH logo for the sign with my name on it. By that time traffic had picked up and the 30 kilometer ride to the hotel took another hour, adding two very long hours to my already 30 hour journey. I got my first taste of infamous Kinshasa traffic.

The first few miles after the airport is a smooth ride on a four lane highway with every 10 meters someone sweeping the sand and dirt off the road. A posted sign indicated that this was part of the Clean Kinshasa campaign. But as we got closer to the city center the roads narrowed, and the task of these cleaners got more and more overwhelming. No longer sweeping up light dust from the road, a few workers in their yellow reflective jackets had gotten the more daunting assignment to clean up an enormous pile of garbage heaped on an unpaved sidewalk with thick black sludge next to it. I think the clean-up campaign will take a while and will only make a difference is it includes educating the people so that everyone is responsible.

All along the road are the usual giant billboards of cellphone company enticing potential customers with promises of easy access to all of Africa as if it was free. In between are smaller ones from various companies competing for a dominance of the market of skin lightening products, targeting African women who believe black is not beautiful.

My hotel is quite posh, belonging to the Kempinski chain. It is situated on the banks of the wide Congo River, next to the President’s compound. I am on the 10th floor and have a nice view on this lush and green ambassadorial part of the city. The hotel was built by the Chinese. There are many Chinese business men in the restaurant making me forget for a moment I just traveled 1000s of miles from where they hail from. I could be in Ulaanbataar. Many signs are in English, French and Chinese. The gas masks in my room are exactly the same as in my Ramada room. I have never had a gas mask within reach and I wonder why now. There are no metal detectors or any other form of obvious security in this hotel (or for that matter in Ulaanbataar).

I checked in and then had breakfast, having missed all meals on the night flight as I was too busy sleeping. I wolfed down a large plate of greens, my body acting autonomously in piling salad greens on my breakfast plate rather than eggs and the more traditional breakfast fare. It is clear that I have been missing some important nutrients the last 2 weeks.


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