Archive Page 75

Goodbyes

We had caught many crabs in Axel’s new trap, with the tailfin of the 40 pound striper as bait. But the crabs are smart, especially the larger ones. One of them opened the hatch and all but the small ones escaped after having filled their bellies with decomposing striper meat, yum.

We returned the trap to the middle of the cove and caught another load. There is no lack of green crabs in our cove, which we already knew as the new generation of mussels have been eaten, leaving us with the same elderly mussels and thus diminishing returns. I suppose that eating the crabs is just another way of enjoying our mussels, a second hand way.

Steve and Tessa cleaned up the estate, we had one more meal, using up the leftovers from the party and then we parted. It was a wonderful celebratory weekend. Steve brought the crab trap up and I turned the inhabitants into crab bisque, an improvised soup that included all the vegetables in the refrigerator that needed to be put out of their suffering. It came out perfect and will feed us for a few days.

In the afternoon we went to the funeral service for Sita’s friend Shelby. It brought together the old high school group of friends, uncomfortable in their funeral attire and still grieving deeply about one more friend who was no longer there. It was a very Catholic service which to some was soothing and to me a source of distraction. The language was about joy and hope and reuniting with Christ; the imagery of sitting at the same table as God. It doesn’t work for me but I can see how these beliefs can be a comfort to others. Knowing Shelby I imagined her looking down and giggling about all the hooplala.

After the service there was the cemetery and then the Franco-American club where food and drink awaited us. Sita and Jim had driven out and parked Faro at his grannie; so we didn’t get to see him. His presence might have lightened up the mood but he was napping, saving the mood for later during the long ride back home.

Shelby was an artist and a very creative mind. Her portfolios were on display and her mom and I shook our heads, acknowledging how death is such a waste of talent.

Silent Disco and stripers

A hurricane’s passing east of us produced a lot of rain on the 3rd and 4th of July. For the first time in years it wasn’t sweltering hot during the 4th of July parade and for the first time in years we weren’t even there to witness it. Axel had promised Sita and Jim we would babysit while they made music with many other bands and friends in the afternoon of the fourth. And so we drove out to western Massachusetts on the 3rd and passed the 4th as if it was an ordinary day, made extraordinary by being in the presence of our grandson. We are now teaching him where Ouagadougou is – after a little thinking he responds, Burkina (we dropped the Faso part to keep it simple, not wanting to overtax the developing synapses). By the time he is 6 he should have the map of Africa in his head!

When we returned home the preparations for Tessa’s annual beach birthday bash were in full swing. It is now the fifth year of the Silent Disco as the center piece of the celebration. Tessa made a special sweatshirt, reminiscent of Endless Summer with its yellow, pink and orange hues and SDbTS V printed in between the lobster claws (Silent Disco by the Sea, 5th year). Silent disco allows for a dance party with a DJ but without disturbing the neighbors, as the music is only heard through headphones. It’s one of those party innovations that makes so much sense – one can dance to loud music and then have a quite conversation just by removing the headphones.

While Tessa’s party was starting with people tricking in from noon onwards, we dressed up to go to Axel’s 50th high school reunion. He is considered part of the class even though he left before graduation. It was a bittersweet affair, with happy reunions and sad tales of loss of life partners and health. The goodbyes were particularly difficult as everyone knew some people would not be there for the next reunion.

Back at home the pace of the party had picked up. There was much coming and going all through the day, the night and even the next day. This is a party that looks like a bell curve, with the top of the bell curve somewhere between 10 PM and noon the next day. When the weather is as perfect as it was this weekend, the party goes on until it is over. Now, on Monday morning, one more tent remains, with two occupants who really know how to party.

On Sunday morning, one hour before dead low tide, two friends of Tessa went out in a canoe and caught a 5 feet striper. The striper did not give up the fight easily, capsized the boat and broke the rod. The capsized boat also contained an iPhone, a camera and another rod. All were retrieved later except for the iPhone which is now, I suppose, a curiosity for the creatures on the ocean floor.

The story of the fish, and the fish itself, were shared for the rest of the day. Last year a large striper was also caught, so this is now the new tradition, and although the process by which the fish was caught was a little scary, we hope Tessa’s fishing friends will continue the tradition. Fish cooked on the grill at the beach, along with bacon and eggs, made for a nice morning-after breakfast.

Blessings

I am back at work after a wonderful few days at home with my family. It is a bit of a slow time, with deliverables delivered from the previous assignments and the next one, though only 9 days away, not ready for action yet.

I am taking care of small bits and pieces of work, promises I made and trying to refresh my memory of how to work a database that has been languishing since before Afghanistan because of a false move between computers. No database expert has been able to help me so far so I think I am going to return to my notes from an internet course, more than a decade ago, given by our local community college.

One of the more difficult bits and pieces on my to do list is writing a letter in support of an Afghan colleague who is applying for a visa to the US because he has received threats that make living in Afghanistan increasingly dangerous; something about kidnappings and kidnappers being killed and revenge. I realize how lucky I am to live in a place that has a functioning legal system, recourse for wrongful actions and some basic protections. He has none of that, in spite of the billions of dollars that we have poured into Afghanistan. Such basic stuff that we take for granted.

I look out of the window and count my blessings: green, sun, water, a good job here, and 30 miles to the north more of that.

One of those blessings is Tessa who arrived on July 2nd 29 years ago. I remember the day like yesterday. First there were the croissants that Axel had intended to crisp in oven of the birth center. But the oven was defective and it went into self-cleaning mode which means the oven locks and heats till 500 degrees. It brought the fire trucks out instantly and was a nice distraction to the more and more sever contractions. It made for a memorable birth, as if one needs to be made more memorable.

That little redhead has now grown into a confident and competent 29 year old owner of a graphic design firm with an ever increasing cast of clients, engaged to a wonderful man and with two sweet dogs, our grand-dogs. What more could I wish?

The good and the sad

I came home to my favorite place and people of the world on what we call a 10+ day. And these days stayed through the weekend. But I also came home to the most devastating news that yet another very close friend of Sita had died. Thirteen years ago this scenario played out and now these wounds are ripped open again and we are once again grieving and wondering how all this could have happened again. This young woman too was an only child of a single mother and Sita and Jim, with their other friends have circled around her to lighten the load of dealing with the aftermath.

This was, with all the sadness, a bonus for me as I had not expected to see Sita, Jim and Faro this soon. They drove down to be with their friends who live near us, sharing their sadness and memories.

Faro, oblivious to all this, was in seventh heaven; having an opa and oma who have a beach and a whole ocean to play in, is his bonus. Axel and Faro walked the beach – a dream come true for Axel and a nice memory in the making for Faro. He is less interested in the crabs than in the stones – a whole beach full of stones that can be picked up and thrown to make a splash in the water. But then he got sick on Saturday and has kept us all busy since then; worried parents who never had a sick child, interrupted nights and a very unhappy child.

The weather has allowed us to find distraction in gardening. While I was away weeds had invaded the newly planted garden, overshadowing the seedlings of carrots, beets and chard. I spent about four hours on my knees pulling weeds, thinning the seedlings and removing the many volunteers that had picked some choice sunny spots. Axel worked on his boat so he can start putting out the lobster pots again.

To make the family fest complete, Tessa and Steve showed up with their two dogs and Axel put their bed together in the studio so they can now stay overnight. The cheap IKEA fold out we had bought for this purpose had chased them away – too hard and too short for long-legged Steve. I am anxiously awaiting whether the new arrangement, made from our old bed, was satisfactory.

We had a joyful dinner with everyone around the table, the center piece (for me at least) a huge salad of micro greens, results of the thinning process. The four carnivores in our family probably thought the sirloin and angus steaks were the center piece. It is so good to be home, even with all the worries and sadness.
 

Wrapping up and going home

My last few days in Kinshasa flew by – being a single facilitator of a process that usually takes two, kept me busy and on my toes. My colleagues stayed with the process till the end and produced their learning plan – an accomplishment that surprised them. Once again I am amazed how little of the facilitation techniques and methods that I use to get people to talk in groups about things that are important to them, gets out to the various corners of the world, whether Mongolia or the DRC.

In the closing session people indicated that they will incorporate some of the things they experienced and learned in their own sessions with people out in the health zones. I wish I could be a fly on the wall.

After Mongolia where I could not understand the language, nor read its (essentially Cyrillic) script it was wonderful and easy to be able to both read, understand and communicate with my colleagues without the interposition of an interpreter. But being alone I did not probe and question enough, I realized, as I was putting together the various sections of the plan they produced. Some entries now puzzle me. I suspect there will be several rounds of review and revision. The Afghanistan plan, after all, took about 6 months to finalize.

My exit from DRC showed me some of the chaos and ‘pagaille’ that I had been spared living in a luxury hotel and being driven to and from the office each day. The travel agent hired to get us in and out of the country, the one who didn’t show up on time when I arrived, took me through all the phases of the exit process, which was a good thing as little is obvious for a newbie like me. One can be denied boarding at the very last moment, when one is already checked out of the country by the Congolese officials, if proof of a particular tax cannot be produced. Luckily all my papers were in order and I got my seat in a jumbo that was filled to capacity with families, crying babies, missionaries, and God knows who else.

I had a short wait in Paris, enough for a shower, a more substantive breakfast than the one given on the plane and time to review a consultant’s report from Nigeria. That too showed that we have a long way to go from telling people what to do to having them draw on their own wisdom and wishes. They do this when we are not around but then we come in. We shake our heads about everything that is not up to our standards. And then we tell them what to do.

The last leg, although long, was easy with a coveted economy comfort seat and an open middle seat and a series of good movies. Watching three movies in a row makes a 7 hour flight easy.

Learning and writing

So far nothing has changed my positive impression of the DRC. I spent most of Saturday and Sunday preparing for the next event, taking a few naps and on Sunday afternoon a break at the pool. There was a soft breeze and the temperature was perfect. As soon as I sat down a waiter appeared with some snacks without hassling me about what I wanted to drink. I volunteered a local beer which came in an enormous bottle (Primus), plus more snacks. Of course nothing is free and I pay a premium for everything I consume in this posh hotel. A nine dollar beer and a 60 dollar tab for my evening meal that includes a buffet and a glass of South African wine is the going rate.

On Monday morning the driver from the office, Ali, picked me up and addressed me in perfect English. Unlike Cote d’Ivoire where there is great reluctance (and inability) to speak English, here many of the people I have met so far speak English. Ali’s English came from educational escapades all over the region. I asked how he got himself in, for example, the business school of Makerere University in Kampala. “I just managed,” he said. So this is the famous système ‘D’ ( for débrouillard) that I had heard so much about. When one lives in a situation of constant turbulence, and one where at one point (when I set foot across the border from Goma into what was then Zaire, 23 years ago) a few millions of the local currency bought nothing more than a small tube of toothpaste, one learns ‘to manage’ as Ali had done. He was used to be kicked out of one country and try his luck in another. He has degrees in business administration and mechanics – yet here he is our driver. I found similar underemployment in the assistant who has been assigned to help me – she has a degree in international law but is an office assistant.

Everyone is very eager to learn which omens well for the Learning Organization workshop. A group of professional staff took advantage of my presence and called an impromptu meeting to pick my brain about writing papers and proposals for conference presentations. I know how intimidating this kind of writing can be as I have been there myself. I suggested to start small and write for each other small pieces and then use Louise Dunlap’s process for providing feedback, the most positive and encouraging way I know of to help people get comfortable writing. Axel used her materials extensively in Kabul at SOLA while working with high school students on their essays.

Our office is in a very nice 5 story building where everything seems to work and the workspaces are clean and airy. Again, I had expected something not quite as together and am constantly surprised in a positive way. I am welcomed warmly by everyone and found everything ready for the workshop which starts today. I am glad this trip didn’t get canceled.

A new place

It doesn’t happen very often that I arrive in a new place, but this trip had two of them. My mind is swirling with first impressions. I wondered about my father’s experience some 60 years ago when he first arrived here as part of a 3 months Africa-breweries trip in 1954. I got his diary and postcards from that journey. The pictures are of a different time and place, colonial Léopoldville with its wide empty streets, clean colonial buildings, a few quaint looking buses and the occasional private car.

The company supposed to pick me up was not waiting for me as I had been told. After all that luck I could have expected some things not quite going according to plan. The Congolese were very solicitous of me, seeing that I had no one waiting fore me. I don’t think I have ever been to an airport were people were so friendly, concerned and where security was loose enough that people could act like people rather than officials assuming the worst in everyone. There was much laughing and joking. I took an instant liking this place.

Eventually my handler showed up after a friendly airport worker named Coco called his company on his cellphone. The driver had some lame and incomprehensible excuse about the delay having to do with problems with the MSH logo for the sign with my name on it. By that time traffic had picked up and the 30 kilometer ride to the hotel took another hour, adding two very long hours to my already 30 hour journey. I got my first taste of infamous Kinshasa traffic.

The first few miles after the airport is a smooth ride on a four lane highway with every 10 meters someone sweeping the sand and dirt off the road. A posted sign indicated that this was part of the Clean Kinshasa campaign. But as we got closer to the city center the roads narrowed, and the task of these cleaners got more and more overwhelming. No longer sweeping up light dust from the road, a few workers in their yellow reflective jackets had gotten the more daunting assignment to clean up an enormous pile of garbage heaped on an unpaved sidewalk with thick black sludge next to it. I think the clean-up campaign will take a while and will only make a difference is it includes educating the people so that everyone is responsible.

All along the road are the usual giant billboards of cellphone company enticing potential customers with promises of easy access to all of Africa as if it was free. In between are smaller ones from various companies competing for a dominance of the market of skin lightening products, targeting African women who believe black is not beautiful.

My hotel is quite posh, belonging to the Kempinski chain. It is situated on the banks of the wide Congo River, next to the President’s compound. I am on the 10th floor and have a nice view on this lush and green ambassadorial part of the city. The hotel was built by the Chinese. There are many Chinese business men in the restaurant making me forget for a moment I just traveled 1000s of miles from where they hail from. I could be in Ulaanbataar. Many signs are in English, French and Chinese. The gas masks in my room are exactly the same as in my Ramada room. I have never had a gas mask within reach and I wonder why now. There are no metal detectors or any other form of obvious security in this hotel (or for that matter in Ulaanbataar).

I checked in and then had breakfast, having missed all meals on the night flight as I was too busy sleeping. I wolfed down a large plate of greens, my body acting autonomously in piling salad greens on my breakfast plate rather than eggs and the more traditional breakfast fare. It is clear that I have been missing some important nutrients the last 2 weeks.

Yawning in Paris

After the dishonest taxi driver in Ulaanbataar my luck turned with having an entire row to myself on the flight to Moscow. On the AF flight to Paris I got a seat on the last row before the business class curtain. Technically speaking it was not business but premium economy (my row didn’t have the middle seat blocked) but the flight attendants treated all first 8 rows the same and this meant a nice lunch, good wines and lots of chocolate. I probably shouldn’t have taken the wine because ever since I have been yawning. It was getting increasingly difficult to keep my eyes open during the 7 hour wait in Paris.

Luckily there is the AF lounge which is as nice as the Moscow lounge, with showers. Unlike the showers in Amsterdam, where you have to put your name on a waiting list, here you can simply try your luck and see which showers are free. The showers are entirely wheelchair accessible – I am sensitive to this now: wide doors, a folding bath seat with rails if needed and lots of room to move around, with wheelchair or without.

In the evening France was playing Greece in the World Cup which made for big excitement among the natives and travelers alike, especially when France won. Even the usually serious and proper ground staff had French flags painted on their cheeks and forehead. Bands of young men draped in French flags and singing the Marseillaise moved noisily between gates. Bread and circus (in this case, croissants and World Cup wins) keeps people happy when there is otherwise much to be unhappy about.

After boarding the plane I realized my luck continued even with my eyes nearly closed from lack of sleep. The flight was packed with families and babies. I had already resigned myself to a seat in the tumultuous main cabin, when I noticed my row was in the premium cabin, something not quite business class but more spacious and quiet than the main cabin. There were only 3 of us in a 21 seat section. When the large man sitting in back of me was pushed forward to the (also empty) business class section because he didn’t really fit in his seat, the flight attendant told me and the third occupant that it was only fair if all of us got pushed forward. She apologized that we wouldn’t get the business class food – but who cares when one has a nearly flat bed for the last 7 hour night flight on a 30 hour journey.

Across the steppes

The taxi driver in Ulaanbaatar asked double the price of what the hotel had told me. I had no more local money and was ready for a battle in the cold drizzly morning outside Ghenggis Khan international airport. I threatened to call the hotel which immediately produced the change he owed me but I got the receptionist to give him a piece of my mind in Mongolian anyways. I hoped it was not a bad omen. Corruption and unsavory business practices are apparently rampant. I had heard about it and now there was the experience.

I was too early and this meant standing in this line and then that line while the uniformed men and women employed at the airport donned their white gloves and took their stations. It took a long time.

The check in staff had no idea where Kinshasa was but they gave me boarding passes to my transit and final destinations anyways. Although I had gotten a Premium Economy Ticket on this Aeroflot flight, more expensive than the usual low fares I get, I was placed in the middle of the cabin. I grudgingly let go of my fantasy which only knows premium from long haul/wide body flights – narrower than B-class but more spacious than the back of the bus. I consider a 6.5 hour flight a long haul but we did it in a small plane that had no fancy premium chairs. I reseated myself in the middle of an empty row and held on to it throughout the boarding process – tense moments. When I stretched out to sleep I realized there were damp blankets all around me (or maybe someone peed in his/her pants) – that kind of smell.

The cabin crew told us first in Russian and then in accented English that alcohol not provided by the airline was not to be consumed. It was 6 AM in Ulaanbaatar and I hoped this was not going to be an issue.

I slept, read and puzzled and suddenly we were in Moscow. As we moved west across the steppes, Siberia and then the -Stans I noticed that we went from treeless to heavily wooded by the time we landed in Moscow.

I was last in Moscow (not at the airport) in 1974. If someone had told the Soviets then that their airport would look like any other airport in the world (Africa north of South Africa excepted) forty years later he would have been tried for treason. There is an TGIFriday and countless Starbuck look-alikes, fancy perfumes that produce sneezing attacks and alcohol galore. Other than the Cyrillic script and the abundance of Aeroflot planes there is no way of knowing I am in Russia. I am looking for oligarchs in the business lounge and wonder if they could be female.

The business class lounge has salami and herring (not combined) sandwiches and there is vodka of course. But there is also oatmeal porridge and fancy petit-fours. The free internet promptly crashed my computer, if such is possible. My virus defense force gave me notice that a Python virus had been caught. Imagine that! I hope my computer’s vaccinations are up to snuff. Next sign of life from Paris, incha’llah.

Alignment Light

The second day of the alignment meeting even less people showed up. I suppose the meeting needed to be renamed ‘Alignment Light.’ We were at half capacity. The representatives from other ministries must have decided there were other more important things to do and so we lost some critical perspectives. But all the wheelchair users were there – this is important to them, they have the most to gain from this initiative and I suspect it will be their perseverance that will get and keep things moving.

Energy levels went up and down throughout the morning and after lunch the downhill trend set in, not unusual, to continue deep into the basement. With only 15 people left and only 2 in position of any authority, we ended at 3 PM, two hours before the scheduled time. We had enough good stuff to crawl into the next phase – one learns to adjust one’s expectations.

What resulted was some action on transportation access, some action on creating a multidisciplinary and multi stakeholder committee to focus exclusively on wheelchairs, complete a proposal to Korea about setting up workshops and keeping momentum going. A third group is working on constructing a model building, not a new project but something that can be used to show what a wheelchair accessible (inside and outside) building looks like. The owner of this project, a private prosthetics business woman, invited everyone to the opening. A fourth group focused on developing a plan that will eventually produce a pool of local trainers. This will require some extensive negotiations between various interested parties, among them Deseret, an organization of the Latter Day Saints, that donates wheelchairs plus training, a package deal.

All in all I am optimistic. Mongolia is at the very beginning of a long process of developing its capacity and infrastructure to meet the needs of wheelchair users. Since my only other example is The Philippines I might have overestimated what is possible here.

We had a nice debriefing with the USAID mission director and his Georgian program manager over lattes and espresso. We all paid for our own beverage, as we are supposed to, something we learn every year in our procurement integrity course. I was glad there was no awkward moment. The USAID mission is small here, only 2 expats, and, we were told, shrinking, if such is possible with that few people.

Back at the hotel Maggie and I had our last meal together and then it was time to pack. Maggie is lugging an empty suitcase back, except for the cashmere stuff she is buying. So I was able to drop some things off at her room and continue my journey just a tad lighter.


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