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Bad science

My body has given me ample signals to take it easy, and thus, today, starts a 10 day stretch of sleeping in and chilling. That is, after I have done my Christerklaas rhymes and wrappings. This year there is little sign of Christmas in our house: no tree, no wreaths, and no candles. We will celebrate Christmas and New Year’s Eve in Easthampton this year, so no need to decorate our home.

The only signs of Christmas are the Christmas cards that people sent us every year and Axel repeating his intentions about our Christmas cards for 2015. This is his job, as I have never quite understood the idea of Christmas cards, especially those with scenes of winter, red birds and Christmas trees, or those with Peace and Love messages. I do like the ones with family pictures, especially from those we don’t see very often or families that are expanding very fast and we are way behind, the last grandchild no longer being the last. Now that we have Facebook we don’t need these cards anymore as a means of ‘staying in touch.’

My job at Christmas is making mustard. It has been for the last few decades. It is a tradition that started with finding a book in the (West Newbury) library called ‘Better than Store Bought.’ I was intrigued by the mustard recipes and tried one, then another, etc. Over all these years the mustard has never come out bad, though I have simplified my operation. I now make only one or two types (tarragon/white wine and red wine/garlic and pepper). The labels, which I make without assistance from the graphic designers in my family, are also simplified and simply state that inside is Sylvia’s Christmas mustard.

But this year the red wine mustard came out bad. It tasted metallic. I threw several pounds of it out. I had already made the white wine mustard which came out nice, as it always does. I played the scientist, reviewing all the variables in a failed experiment. The ingredients in common with the white wine mustard could not be the culprits, which left the red wine vinegar (I threw out a whole gallon, prematurely). I started with better quality red wine vinegar, fresh garlic, freshly ground black pepper and a reasonable good wine and made a new batch. It still came out bad. I would never be a good scientist because I gave up.

I finished listening to Lisa Randall’s book about Dark Matter and the Dinosaurs and learned what real science is about. I understood about 20% of the book and expanded my time horizon to about 30 billion years which made me more patient with the present. I also appreciated that scientists never give up. But this mustard scientist is not cut from the same cloth.

And so this year’s mustard will be a ‘limited edition’ mustard. I have one last hypothesis, could it be the seeds? Are not all mustard seeds alike?  The seeds for the white wine mustard had a different source than the seeds I used in the two failed batches. Maybe I should start growing my own. Merry Christmas!

Home sick

In a few hours I will have been home for a week. On Saturday and Sunday we made the rounds of our kids and grandkids, a 6 and a half hours spent in the car which left me stiff and grumpy. But the hours spent in between with them were the most happy.  Saffi laughed and interacted with me in ways she had not been able to do when I left. Faro’s linguistic abilities make it hard to imagine a time when he could not converse as he does now. He is a very physical little boy and bounces up and down the couches, making forts from the pillows, and disappearing underneath. There is no sitting still except for meals, but only for a very short time.

Tessa and Steve are now married officially and have a ring tattooed on their finger. This means Tessa is on Steve’s health insurance, a sigh of relief from all of us.  The cost of health care in the US, when not insured, could ruin an entire extended family. The real wedding, in their eyes, is on September 16 next year and preparations are underway. It will be a do-it-yourself wedding at their house, followed the next day by a big potluck celebration.

I went to work on Tuesday and Wednesday and learned about a few more departures. The area where my cubicle sits has become rather empty; a place for 16 people now occupied by one person full time and three of us now and then.

Somehow, between Tuesday and yesterday I developed a full-fledged head cold, reminding me of my sick days in Madagascar. Whatever immunity I may have developed there didn’t help me ward of the North American virus responsible for my miserable state. I was going to take some personal days but one turned into a partial workday and the other is now officially a sick day.

Sugarless

On October 30, after having watched the movie ‘’That Sugar Film’ on my way to Johannesburg, I resolved to not consume any (processed) sugar during my six week trip. This trip is now over and I succeeded.

I refused all baked goods that included sugar, including the brownies and cookies offered at workshop breaks, the breathtaking cakes and pastries displayed on hotel buffets, the ice cream offered halfway through the intercontinental flights, the gum, sweets and power bars which I would certainly have taken before, especially when hungry.

I spent 25 days in chocolate producing countries (Madagascar and Cote d’Ivoire) where I have bought chocolate in large quantities before. The only chocolate I bought (and ate all by myself) was a 5 Euro bar at the airport of Antananarivo which contained 100% cocoa. It took 10 days before it was gone. I did eat fresh fruit every morning, in small quantities, but avoided fruit juices.

My goal was to find out how a sugarless (including fake sugar) diet would affect me. And here is how: my mental clarity improved. I think more clearly now, even after a 6 week road trip, then I did at the beginning. I actually started off very sick, not sure it was related as it was a respiratory ailment in a polluted environment during their flu season, which makes cause and effect hard to establish. But after I recovered I felt better every day, and was in great shape when I landed at Logan, yesterday, after 6 weeks and a 30 hour trip.

I also lost 5 pounds. Usually I gain 5 pounds after each trip, which I usually lose quickly after I return. So I could, theoretically, have gained 20 pounds, given that I had 4 assignments in a row.

And best of all, I entirely lost my craving for sugar and have no difficulty ignoring any sugary thing put in front of me, even the things I could not resist 6 weeks ago. And so I think I continue this new habit over Christmas, the ultimate test.

All our problems

I am finally home. It is the best part of travel, though it has been a great trip. I met some wonderful and dedicated people and am reminded again that there are more good people than bad people. After watching the repetitive news on Al Jazeera, BBC and France’s TV 24 in my various hotel rooms, this is a fact that is easy to overlook.

On the way home I read most of K. O Schmidt’s book “Le hasard n’existe pas,” and excellent French translation of the original German. The book was a gift from my colleague Rose in Abidjan.

Schmidt’s credo is: “En toi réside la cause de tout ce qui t’arrive dans la vie.” It matches quite nicely my proposition to participants in our workshops: all our troubles and challenges are created by ourselves – a practical proposition because it means you can change things. If others create these problems, and inflict them on us, then what can we possibly do to make things better? The current debates raging around the world, and which only benefit the military-industrial complex, shows the futility of taking this tack, dragging us ever deeper into arms races, serpentine wires and toxicity of all types.

Nearly there

I had a long drawn out breakfast with my colleague. It was nice not to have to look at my watch. We talked for hours. We were the only ones from our party who had not left. Downstairs in the lobby an unmanned piano played Auld Lang Syne and other seasonal melodies.

I had planned to have a massage in the morning but my Ethiopian friend E said she’s come to pick me up for a coffee at 9. She never came and I never had my massage. Instead I finished some administrative chores and then went to the airport.

The baggage check revealed something metal in my luggage. To the man behind the computer screen this appeared suspicious. I had to unpack my suitcase. I knew what he was looking for, the bronze Nepali temple bells which I use to indicate that time’s up in my workshops. He asked what they were and I told them they were bells for praying. His supervisor was called and this time I told him these were bells I used for praying. He smiled and decided not to confiscate them when I indicated that I really needed them for my religious practice.

In Nairobi I stepped into the wrong bus, the one that went to the terminal. When I was asked to pay 20 dollars for a transit visa I protested. That is 5 dollars per hour for my 4 hour wait, I said. When the immigration official understood that I wasn’t going to leave the airport I was handed over to a nice gentleman who organized a small bus to take me across the airport to the transit hall.

The KLM double-decker Boeing packed us like sardines, and then, 8 hours later, deposited hundreds of us at a drizzly Schiphol airport before 5 AM. Here I am now, waiting for the next and final leg of this long trip. I feasted on beschuit met kaas in the KLM lounge. I didn’t touch the speculaas or the stroopwafels and licorice because I am still on a no-processed-sugar diet, quite successfully I might say. I am experiencing that mental clarity I was promised 6 weeks ago. Indeed!

Send-offs

My last assignment has been completed, goods delivered, people inspired and ready to change whatever they can around them. I think this is why I am an optimist when it comes to people (and a pessimist when it comes to governments, systems and structures).

We finished today with an Open Space session which was, as usual, a big hit. There were moving and honest conversations about the experience of working in a dysfunctional team, the undiscussables, the double agendas, and working in dysfunctional societies.

I recognize the privilege of going home to a peaceful place when I think about our teams: the team from Burundi returns to a volcano that is waking up, and rumbling ominously. The people from the DRC go back, with all their enthusiasm and good intentions, to a system that can never function properly as long as the top leaders drain the country’s treasury for personal gain, setting the tone for everyone below them. The Niger and Tchad teams go back to a place where Boko Haram roams free and with too many weapons floating across their deserts and environmental calamities always on the horizon. The teams from Madagascar and Togo are probably the best off, with Togo having made it peacefully through an election and Madagascar recovering from a bad spell.

One of our participants had a stroke, probably right after he landed. We noticed his bizarre behavior on the first day. When he started to get incoherent and when we saw his mouth drooping and his hands holding on to the walls when walking, we sent him off to the hospital where he remains until tomorrow.

Tonight we spent about 3 hours going back and forth to the hospital, the airport, the hotel and the hospital again trying to get all the paperwork arranged to fly him back to Lomé tomorrow morning, with the rest of the Togo team. He didn’t recognize us quite yet, although he has improved greatly, walks, and talks again; the attending doctor believes he will recover completely.

And now I am packing my bags for the last time and having some fun with numbers:

8 different hotels (ranging from -1 star to 5 stars); 10 take offs and landings; 1 B-class upgrade; 10 times unpacking and packing my suitcase; 1250 km on the road and 23000 miles in the air; 1 laryngitis, 1 sinusitis, 2 visits to medical establishments (1 for self, 1 for a participant), 6 events; 190 participants; 4 trip reports; 2 linguistic zones; 4 billing codes; 2 writing assignments after hours; 3 other jobs on the night shift; 2 pedicures; 2 massages; unknown numbers of monkeys, lemurs and zebras, 5 sim cards, 2 phones, and 3 passports.

Transformations

I have transited to Addis – taking a whole day of flying, a stop in Lomé where the Togo team came on board, and then a two hour wait in Addis where we joined the Niger team. Both the Togo and the Niger team have a participant in a wheelchair and so everything takes a bit longer.

It was nice seeing everyone again at the hotel since we last said our goodbyes in Lomé at the end of July, the day Saffi was born and the day I lost my travel smart phone in the consternation of an election rally ambush.

After my zero star experience in Cote d’Ivoire I am now again wallowing in luxury, with real coffee (macchiato) any time I want.

In two days I am completing my trip and I am about ready for that, although I am still having a lot of fun with the ICRC teams. I have seen small and big transformations.

After having finished the Congo book I no longer believe that we can change a health system as long as the leaders of that system, as well as their political bosses, are lining their pockets with money at should have gone to education, health and agriculture. They are counting on US, European and Japanese taxpayers to foot the bill of their country’s development and we gladly obey. So I look closer, to the individuals that grow more confident, dare to speak out and, in short, start to exhibit behavior worthy of a leader, or rather, as we call them, managers who lead.

Small change

We left Man at 7:20 exact. I had calculated that we would arrive in Abidjan around 3:30 PM (which we did). It’s a long and at times scary journey but I was in good hands with a competent driver.

Mid way, after four hours of driving we stopped at a little maquis, a simple local restaurant with a limited menu of local dishes. The driver checked a few to make sure they had a toilet, and we ended up at one that had a toilet where one didn’t have to roll up one’s pantlegs.

The local food is quite good and the least likely to provoke intestinal troubles, contrary to what most people think. I have not consumed any processed food for more than two weeks now and I feel great.

Too my great surprise we ran into the regional director who was one of my students a year and a half ago. I don’t know many people in Cote d’Ivoire and those I know are mostly in Abidjan (and a few in Man now). To run into a familiar face in the middle of the country seems a coincidence. But my colleague Rose doesn’t believe in coincidences. She gave me a book ‘Le hasard n’existe pas’ (chance doesn’t exist). I haven’t read it yet, but in this case I would agree. Not only did the regional director explain more about the death of his secretary, he also told me that all the districts in his region now use the challenge model and things are more systematic and organized, with better results. I knew that his district director who was part of our facilitation team in Man has transformed (not only herself but also how her team works) but now it seems all of his district directors operate this way.

After reading Congo I realize that ‘changing health systems’ may be a pipe dream as long as corrupt leaders set the tone. But at least at a local level, some things I have done have made a difference. It may not be sufficient on a global level, but it is good for them.

Victims

Compared to the birthday breakfast I would have had at home, this one here in Man was a bit below the grade, a quarter limp baguette, a vache qui rit triangle and a Lipton teabag dipped in warm water served by a surly waitress. But a week from now I will make up, no doubt, with a spectacular replay.

On the second day of the workshop the group struggled to formulate a measurable result related to better coordination. Not surprisingly, people came up with more meetings and more people at meetings. We pushed for better and more creative results, such as setting up local structures to improve emergency preparedness, but the general attitude is one of victim – we are low on the country’s political and economic ladder and we never get enough money.

People don’t like it when I push them to be more creative and become agent rather victim – this is after all a leadership development program. There is some comfort in being able to decline responsibility and blame others for problems.

This may all seem very theoretical from a distance but yesterday a young woman, secretary of the regional health director whose district director is with us, died in the region’s referral hospital after childbirth. She leaves behind her newborn and two small children. Everyone is very upset about this (though they also remark this happens a lot – as one could see in the maternal mortality statistics).  It seems that the handovers were not done well. When people act as individual professionals and are looking only at their own responsibilities when their task is done, this is what happens. Although lack of trained personnel is sometimes a cause for such tragedies, at this hospital there were enough trained personnel. Heartbreaking, over and over again.

I sometimes think that working in teams, taking on a collective responsibility for outcomes, and willingness to shoulder blame is the biggest challenge in countries where people either have lived in constant fear of getting lost in the crowd of anonymous poverty or are still close enough to be worried. It’s puzzling as I am dealing generally with the educated upper middle classes.

When I challenge the constant coming and going of people holding their telephone in front of them as if it pulls them out of the room, I am told these are urgencies. I count. “You had 10 urgencies today?” (this is not a doctor on duty). “Oui, it is my boss asking for information.” “Can’t you ask your boss to leave a message and you will call back during break time?” They look at me in shock. What, ‘contredire le chef?” Culture and poverty…it is going to be a long journey.

Questioning

In my profession it helps to be an extrovert. Usually I am energized  by people who are learning, or eager to work together for a common goal.  But today, during the break, I went upstairs to my room and made my own cup of Nescafe rather than standing in line for exactly the same thing, and since I am not eating any of the stuff that is served at break time (all contains processed sugar) why bother?  Maybe it is because I am tired of having one event after another and being surrounded by people all the time. Or maybe it is because I am getting to be more introverted as I am getting older. Tomorrow I will be a little older.

At lunch time we had a heated discussions – I have heard the arguments over and over. They go something like this:

Me: “Why are there no women in any of your teams?” At first they joked. “We did this express.” When I took their response serious, they became more serious: “Women don’t want to work in this part of the country.” “Why,” I asked. “Because of the crisis (=the contested presidential elections four years ago that dragged Cote d’Ivoire into a nasty civil war). “But that was many years ago,” I said.

We went a little deeper. “They don’t have the right credentials.” “Why,” I asked (why is a great word in my work).  “Because they are nurses and midwives (at least in the health sector).” Me: “There are no women doctors?” At our table is a female departmental director (a doctor). She and a representative of an international NGO contest what the men are saying. We ended up with this: “This is how things are ‘chez nous’.”

Me: “You are willing to put a doctor at the head of a structure? Especially if this person (usually a man in most countries) knows nothing about management or leadership, or for that matter good governance? And, therefore does a lousy job such as depressing morale, being a poor planner, not understanding teamwork or delegation at best or being toxic  at worst? Someone who wastes resources (including such highly valuable resources as human energy and goodwill)? You prefer doing that (failure nearly guaranteed) rather than considering putting someone in charge who has demonstrated her management and leadership capacities but who isn’t a doctor?” “Yes” they say, “because a nurse or midwife could not possibly supervise a doctor!” There you have it. Checkmate!

One of my favorite sayings these days is that we tend to generate most of our own problems. Sometimes people get very angry when I say that, but I ask them to consider the practical consequences of accepting this thesis: if you agree then you can do something about your problems. If you don’t accept it there is not much you can do, and you will have to live with all these problems of today and all those in the future. The latter are the complainers – I have met too many of them.

What our leadership development program does is reduce that number quite a bit – our current facilitators are proof. They have started to question a lot more than they did before and in doing so they become change agents. We are working on a critical mass of questioners and critical thinkers, though this will probably not happen in my lifetime.


October 2026
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