Archive Page 261

Family Van

The Dollar-Rent-A-Car man at the Baltimore airport gave me a huge family van (seating 8 or 9 people plus a few dogs and cats)  instead of the economy car I had asked for. I could tell that he was disappointed when he did not see my face light up. He probably thought he was delighting me, making me forever indebted to Dollar-Rent-A-Car. But I simply wanted four wheels to get me to my hotel and the smallest possible carbon footprint. After all, I had already used up a lot of energy to fly down to Baltimore. I then made things worse by buying a big bag of potato chips (red hot flavored) which was probably trucked in from thousands of miles away, as was the Greek salad, pre-packaged, shipped from California with olives from Greece. It is hard to be a green citizen in this country where big is beautiful and fresh is a packaged illusion.

On the way to my hotel I listened to Bush’s State of the Union address (his last, thank god) which was also about illusions. I listen to the speech because, as a newly minted American citizen I feel it is one of my many civic duties. But the speech and its rituals annoy me, especially the constant clapping each time he says something that is not embarrassing; it is just as bad as the laughing tracks on sitcoms or the high-pitched cheers after every utterance from a presidential candidate after he or she has won something.

I am in Maryland for two days to work with ADRA colleagues on including pieces of our leadership action learning curriculum in the programs they offer through their annual leadership institute in various parts of the world. This has been in the making for years and it looks like it may actually happen in 2008. The last time I worked on this project with the same colleagues was on Friday July 13, a memorable day because it was followed by another memorable day. That was when the planet Mercury was retrograde (it looks like it is going backwards in relation to the earth).

Tessa wrote a special cautionary email to Axel about this planetary arrangement that is once again messing up people’s lives. She wrote it to Axel rather than me (she did copy me) because, apparently, Axel’s ruling planet is the sun which makes him particularly susceptible to Mercury’s antics. Although he usually considers all this planetary stuff nonsense, he did print and paste Tessa’s warning above his desk. She told him to:

·        Take the time to be introspective.

·        Pay attention to how he gathers information and communicates.

·        Be open to new awareness and effectiveness at work, home and play.

·        Look at the details in his life more carefully.

Since he is doing that anyways, it is not much of a stretch. Between now and the 18th of February our familiar channels of communications apparently become tangled and confused producing delays and changes in plans. We are thus advised to use this period for researching and problem-solving, rewriting and editing, reworking old projects or successfully repeating a task. It is a time for reevaluating and reconsidering while holding off on final decisions and approvals until Mercury goes direct.  So this is not a good time for impulse buys and especially risky when it comes to electronic equipment or cars (and I presume planes). There is also an economic reason for this as major purchases may be reduced in price after the retrograde period (Valentines Day sales?) . I was glad that neither of us have any major surgery scheduled since major repairs or surgery performed now may be incomplete or plagued by unexpected repercussions. We’ll hold off on fixing the septic system for now or breast surgery for that matter (the doctor has advised to wait and see for a few months).

We are warned to double-check and reconfirm every detail because typed or written errors are easily overlooked, paperwork is mislaid, and appointments forgotten. This may be so but don’t get too serious over all this. Humor is probably the best medicine, especially when all else fails or nothing goes according to plan.

Foxes and Families

Axel woke up this morning to aches and pains all over his body; he moved with great difficulty. His recovery is by no means the steady upward trend that my trajectory has been. The pains drained his energy and ability to do the exercises he has to do, several times a day, and certainly in the morning. He took a hot bath and went back to bed and fell asleep. I am past the constant pain and it is amazing how quickly one forgets, even when I look at Axel.

I did not call him when the beautiful orange-furred fox showed up in the yard. It would have been too hard for Axel to pull himself up out of the bathtub and look. Foxes are furtive animals. It surely would have been gone by the time he would have been able to see out of the window. I followed it with my eyes, not daring to move, as it wandered around the abandoned bunny pen and then sniffed at the door of Sita’s and Jim’s place; it must have been the cat smell. But something moved under the barn and scared it away.

I went upstairs to look at my Native American animal book to understand what the presence of this fox was telling me. Foxes are superb in blending into their surroundings. As a result of that they are cunning observers and excellent scouts to spot danger. They use stealth for stalking their prey or distraction of those who are after their young. Looking out for their families is one thing that resonated with me. Except that here it is not the young ones that need looking after but rather the old(est) one. Seeing Axel suffer this morning was enough to summon Abi to his rescue with her superb massage skills.

This morning I called my brothers in Holland; one about to be discharged from the hospital after getting a small tumor out of his neck and the other dealing with the aftermath of a restructuring exercise at work that left him dangling, at the end of a long career. Luckily everything seems to be sorting itself out in ways that leaves both of them better off. After my own mishap I am more tuned in to the healing power of connection, even from a distance.

We went to see DJ who was back in his leather shop after having had open heart surgery in Boston last week. I wouldn’t have known from watching him; he acted as if nothing happened. DJ and I have now something in common: big scars down our chests. It was too cold to compare them; maybe we‘ll do that when it is warmer. Axel took pictures of DJ at work to send to Tessa to prove that he is still his old self except for the cow valve in his heart. We all agreed that this was an appropriate new body part for a guy whose life is all about leather and hides.

Last night we went to the St. Johns for an impromptu (and delicious) dinner. We watched Sita at work in the photo gallery on the WEF Workspace website. There is one picture where she is standing right behind an ayatollah-sort-of-man who is involved in a simulation about the Middle East. Sita told us she can’t wait to tell us about that session; we can’t wait either. When we are with the St. Johns we talk a lot about our children and the joys and worries of parenthood. When I first got pregnant with Sita I am not sure I really understood that this new phase we were about to enter was for life. When the girls took care of us this summer and fall we knew we had completed a good chunk of that phase successfully. Now I look back on that period and appreciate the gifts that Sita and Tessa bestowed on us during those difficult times. With the parental foxes being temporary out of circulation, the young ones took over the protector role. That part is done for now although we know that one day they will be called upon again; we are in the lucky position of already knowing that we will be in the best of hands.

709 checkride

The FAA may request to re-examine a pilot. This authority is found in 49 U.S.C. §44709. In pilot’s jargon, this is called the 709 checkride. I was informed of this necessity back in August in the letter Sita claimed came from a robot. I finally took that test this morning. I had to show up at 9 AM at Hanscom Airfield in Bedford and report to the examiner. This meant I had to leave Beverly about 30 minutes earlier.

I had reserved the plane at 8 AM. When it is below freezing temperatures, the plane does not start easily. We use gas heaters that blow hot air around the motor. I have come to supplement this mechanical intervention with Arne’s magic touch. But Arne was in warm Florida and his daughter Wendy does not claim to have that touch. In fact we couldn’t even get the heaters to work. At times like that I can become superstitious and I was ready to cancel my checkride. But may be there was Arne’s touch after all and it works even from a distance. Someone got the blowers to work and after 10 minutes of heat I was able to start the plane on first try.

I was nervous. I had not flown since the first day of January. And I realized that I had not really researched what a checkride really entailed. When I looked it up on the internet I found descriptions that ranged from complete full-fledged re-examinations (re-testing my entire private pilot credentials) to a couple of take-offs and landings. I pulled out my study books and tried to activate dormant knowledge between the early hours of 6 and 8 AM. That would not have been enough for a complete re-examination, but it was enough for what I ended up doing. I was primarily tested on landing on the first 1000 feet of the runway, something I had been practicing quite a bit with Arne. And so I did well and passed.

Flying at Hanscom is a challenge because there is much commercial traffic and many large jets. Compared to Beverly Airport, Hanscom is like a big city. I was even guided to my parking spot by people with orange glow sticks in their hands, just like a big jet. It felt very grown up.

Back home I found a piece of paper stuck to the front door and signed by neighbor Ted that alerted us to another septic system crisis. And so we had another shitload carted away for hundreds of dollars and now we can flush again. When I grew up in Holland I never thought much about sewerage. It was something automatic that happened underground. Here, away from the town sewer lines, on the rocky shores of Lobster Cove, like it or not, we are frequently confronted with our own waste and its finicky disposal.

Sita wrote us enthusiastically about the events at the WEF. She (de)scribed a session about technology and development where all the high and mighty of the world of development and technology came together. We are talking top of the food chain. Sita’s WEF art made it into the ‘warped world of France’s most reviled/loved blogger’ (Sita’s words, not mine). You can see a few glimpses on youtube (http://www.youtube.com/v/iLwPXQZ77DY).

Dodging

The World Economic Forum (WEF) is in full swing now. I watched some of the opening sessions on YouTube, trying to spot Sita but I suspect she was someplace else, busy with the planning of their Workspace sessions. She is working hard and having a great time. The theme of this year’s annual meeting is the Power of Collaborative Innovation, a topic close to my heart. The website will show the graphics and maybe even a glimpse of Sita at work.(http://www.weforum.org/en/events/AnnualMeeting2008/WorkSpace/index.htm)

The Workspace puts the theme into action in ways that warms my heart and gives me hope. Tapping into the collective ingenuity of people is what we do too little of. I sometimes think that this is like a family business for us. My trips to Africa and other places are all about that, albeit on more of a shoestring budget than this WEF affair. We are all trying to accomplish the same things. If we keep remembering that, we might trip less over each other when coming up with strategies.

Yesterday was particularly busy because I thought I was leaving in less than two weeks for Ethiopia and many things had to be compressed into small time slots between now and then. But just when I went to get my absentee ballot I was told the trip to Ethiopia is off and I can decompress a little. When a trip is cancelled it is like getting a gift of time; one whole extra week, such luxury. The next trip (outside the US) will be the end of February to Tanzania. That seems a long way off right now.

This morning I had another session with Ruth and we talked about the half year mark and what had changed. I felt on top of the world. I have my energy back, I can juggle multiple tasks again like I used to and whatever fog was in my head seems to have lifted. One by one the crash chapters are closing. One of the images that came up was a little fish dodging bigger fish snapping at it and trying to devour it. We talked about dodging death and whether I saw it simply as good luck or something else. When I was with Piet and Sietske in Holland Piet had asked me whether I thought this was something more than good luck and my answer was that good luck was too simple an answer and that I liked to think that there was something else for me to do. I thought some more about ‘dodging’ after reading about the Serena Hotel bombing in Kabul last week. Sita and I stayed in that hotel nearly two years ago. At that time we sometimes heard the large glass windows rattle when yet another rocket was fired at the US compound. But I was never afraid. In hindsight, maybe I should have been.

Axel and I went to the new Beverly Hospital breast clinic to follow up on the pea-sized lump in my right breast. First a mammogram and then, only if necessary, the ultrasound. The ultrasound was necessary, which gave me pause. It also took a long time leaving me much to much time to think as I was lying on a bed in a dimly lit room with machines humming around me. The technician finally left to see the doctor and then came back with him. It seemed they were confused by what they saw until I explained about the crash and the flattened and bruised breast. He was not quite sure what follow-up action to recommend but it seems there are more appointments with specialists in my future. This is one chapter of the crash that is only now being opened. Axel asked how I felt, after admitting he was scared. I think I am mostly annoyed because everything was going so well.

As for chapters that are closing, I have been discharged from physical therapy. I asked Julia, “Is this it? No speeches, certificates or flowers? You just take one last set of measurements and cancel all the rest of my appointments and then I am done?” It seems odd, after having been going there for four months, four times a week. I remembered how I first hobbled in on my crutches right after Labor Day. That was ages ago. But there is little that physical therapy has to offer now. The rest of my healing is going to happen by itself as long as I keep up my exercises. With the help from Abi, our massage therapist, the stiffness will gradually disappear and we can get on with our lives. I gave Julia a big hug and pulled the PT office door shut behind me for the last time. Back home I took a pencil and crossed out all the PT appointments in our desk calendar. It made me feel light and free, at least for now. Soon there will be new appointments with doctors and breast surgeons, but for now the days are clear.

Touch and Go

I started the day handing out Ghanaian chocolate bars to the people who had contributed to our trip’s success behind the scenes. Then I put my computer in the computer hospital for observation. It seems to have gotten rid of the nasty virus by itself and I am keeping my fingers crossed. I received a ‘loaner’ and am now using this. Everything is more complicated with a loaner because I have no access to my files, remembered passwords and such. It leaves me with a set of good intentions, like New year’s resolutions, to never be so affected by computer switches again. But this has happened before and, I do know myself. this is likely to happen again.

The landing at work was more like a ‘touch and go.’ It appears that I am off to Ehtiopia in less than 2 weeks. It is one of a few countries in Africa where I have never been and therefore I am not fazed by the short turnaround. MSH has a new project in Ethiopia. It is in start up mode; a period when much about process has still to be sorted out. I like this phase because it is about setting patterns for the future. Such foundation-building work may not be very visible or satisfying but it is of great importance. If you set the patterns wrong you can end up wasting much energy, time and goodwill later.

I went to physical therapy (ankle) and Julia remarked on the progress. She took measurements of angles by bending my foot in various directions. She noted that in some movements my right foot is doing better than the left one; this is probably because of all the exercises and attention my right foot has received over the last few months. She is ready to discharge me (or rather the ankle) from further care. Tomorrow she’ll do the same for the neck and shoulders. I think the physical therapy days are coming to an end. The crash is fading away slowly and the return to normal, so longed for in August, is here, at least for me. Axel is not quite there, and neither is Joan, according to Morsi.

This morning I will see the aviation doctor to recertify my body for another two years of flying. I also have to make an appointment for my 709 checkride at Hanscom airfield, a FAA requirement for pilots who have been involved in a major accident. Given my travel schedule this may not happen anytime soon.

Aisle Seat

I woke up to a moonlit winter-wonder-landscape – it is what makes winters in New England worthwhile – before my alarm went off. Axel considers this the middle of the night but for me it is time to get up. Ever since we switched places in bed – Axel’s bad arm is now on the outside – I have enjoyed waking up in my ‘aisle’ seat next to the window. On such a morning it is especially nice. It is still very cold but I could imagine that I am in Africa in an air conditioned room. We had African food leftovers last night after all.

Yesterday I had my annual physical and for once we did not focus on the body parts that were injured in the crash. At least that is what I thought until the nurse practitioner found a pea size lump (.5 mm) in my right breast (at 1 o’clock). Now I need a mammogram and ultrasound to check this out. I was surprised about my own calmness about this new health glitch. Axel seemed a bit more concerned. I can’t help but think that it has something to do with where that breast was during the crash – flattened by the seatbelt. The right side of my body was completely purple for several weeks and my breast and the inside of my upper arm were the color of a ripe dark plum, or the tulip that is called Queen of the night – just one shade over to blue from black. I remember Dr. Kim telling me that the color would eventually go away but the lumpiness might remain. Let’s hope that that is what this is all about.

Although Monday was a day off for everyone to honor Dr. Martin Luther King, I took advantage of it to get several things off my to do list, which included a proposal for a conference in Ghana about leadership and management in Sub Sahara Africa. How could I not send in a proposal given what we just did there? My new GIMPA colleague Brian responded enthusiastically to the idea and we submitted it with everyone’s name on it. I also completed most of my reports so that I can focus on what lies ahead today.

Axel had his first EMDR session with Ruth, using the clickers. Like I, he was amazed about the speed with which stuff comes up. This first session he had to think about his safe place, as I had to do back in August. For me it was the big recliner chair in the middle of the room. For him it is being in a small rowboat in the middle of Lobster Cove, reading. So now Ruth sees us both. I think this therapy is going to be good for us as individuals and as a couple. We talked about all this while we were eating the first two of the 5 haring I brought back

We are picking up our walking habit now that walking is getting easier and easier. On Sunday I went for a 45 minute walk while Axel was watching the Patriot’s game and even included a very slow jog of 10 minutes. I am determined to go for a walk everyday if the weather cooperates. It did yesterday, a very cold but blue-sky-crystal-clear winter’s day. And so we walked to town together, chatted with some people along the way and then we walked back.

We heated up Fatou’s leftover turkey and couscous for dinner and ate it while sitting by the fire and watching Sherlock Holmes.

Tim Bowers call up in the early evening. He is the person who held my hand and kept me awake after the plane crashed and before the rescue team came. He had asked me the names of Axel and Joan and kept calling them by their name to make sure no one drifted off into unconsciousness. He and Chris Soucy, his friend who we met when we went to Gardner and who covered Axel’s head wound with his shirt, are probably responsible for us being still around. It was an emotional conversation and we promised to go out and see him and his fiancee Rhonda sometime soon. We had missed Tim when we were in Gardner. He was much traumatized by the crash and from his voice we could tell he still may be.

Minus Eight

All through the night the temperature, projected above my bed, said 18 degrees Fahrenheit, which for me is still -8 Celsius. Getting out of bed is difficult in such temperatures.

Today is a day full of appointments again. I have come to live the last two weeks as if nothing happened six months ago but that illusion is gone now.

Yesterday morning I did, for the first time in nearly 2 weeks, my usual shower exercises and discovered that I had made great progress in the flexibility of my ankle. It must have been all this walking on uneven surfaces which is the equivalent of half an hour physical therapy I suspect.

I received an enthusiastic email from Cabul who managed to get a ticket to one of the soccer games and discovered another Bowdoin alumn, Anne. She was one of the three people I was supposed to meet in Accra, as suggested through my old Caringbridge network. Instead, Cabul met her as we could not find time before I left. He then introduced her and others to his uncle’s sports bar (Livingstone) in Accra where they watched the Patriot’s Game. When it came to sports I was not a great travel companion for him but it sounds like he got himself nicely networked into the young Ghana expat crowd.

Axel and I went to see Fatou in Lynn and got lost more than once on our way there. We finally had to buy a roadmap and, while I was searching for the quickest way to Fatou’s appartment Axel hummed the ditty “Lynn, Lynn, the city of sin, you never get out they way you get in.” We wondered about the rest of the rhyme and I found it in Wikipedia: “Ask for water, they give you a gin/ It’s the darndest city I ever been in.”

There we met Fatou’s son Cyril, now in the Air force with two of his Waring classmates, Lilly and Josh, one of the Waring teachers who had had Sita and Tessa in his class and some of Fatou’s dialysis students and colleagues (from the Philippines, from Haiti) We had not seen the Waring folks in years. They have all become travelers it seems. We heard stories about Sikkim, Chile, Kenya, Ghana and Senegal. Only Josh has settled down; as a teacher at Waring. This is something that Sita and Tessa don’t get, this going back to your old school as a teacher. May be for them it is just too dramatic.

Fatou had invited ten people and cooked for 40. She never makes just one dish and so we had and antipasto of tongue, quail eggs, anchovies and vegetables, a Senegalese Cieboudien, a turkey prepared a l’africaine (better than the American Thanksgiving turkeys she asserted) and various sorts of rice plus another set of main dishes with peppers and chicken. I think I may have left something out but I could not possible try everything. We did not finish any of the dishes and all of us were sent home with leftovers, some on the very dishes that we had finally dropped off that had been waiting for their return to Fatou since the ‘summer of African food.” So, we’ll have more African food in the next few days and, once again, dishes to return. But now we know the way to Lynn.

Axel went to see the game with friends and I used the quiet time to bring my email in box back to a manageable size and found all sorts of to-do things that had been in full view or hiding such as scopes of works for assignments over the next few months, conference proposals and trip reports. I also paid some attention to the upcoming OBTS Board elections. As the Chair of the Nominations and Elections Committee I have to present the slate of candidates to the Board very soon, and definitely before I fly to ADRA International HQ early next week in Silver Springs.

No Place Like Home

There is no place like home and there is no person like Axel; together that made for a sweet homecoming, albeit it a bit chilly with temperatures below freezing this morning. The warm Ghana weather is already a distant memory.

Axel had ordered the Household Fairy to clean and de-clutter the house and proudly showed me around. For reasons unknown the Fairy had left several of the Christmas tchotchkes in place. Maybe it is Tessa’s revenge or her way of making sure that everything is out a little earlier than Christmas Eve 2008. She might succeed because in our house tchotchkes have a way of blending in until we stop noticing them.

Axel had not thrown away the forced hyacinths in their tall glasses to show that they had really bloomed. In their post-flowering state they no longer smelled nor looked attractive. When I left on January 4 the flower buds had just become visible and so I managed to miss their flowering entirely. I had started them in early December but had made the fatal error of taking them out of their dark growing place early and disturbed the root formation. I should have known better. When I was in third grade I had left my bulb in the linnen closet for many weeks before I took it out. The stunning blue flower that emerged, I can still see and smell it, won third prize in the annual hyacinth forcing competition among the schools of our town. I grew up in the middle of the tulip growing region. Some of my classmates came from a long line of tulip farmers and for them not winning a prize was, of course, not an option. I did not have such pressure on me but rather a set of enlightened parents who encouraged the growing, not the winning. In early spring, in fifth grade, we also started our own summer vegetable garden (schooltuintjes). Each of us was given a 9×12 plot on a piece of open land (now long since covered up with houses and asphalt) and grew sprouts (tuin kers) carrots, beans and, of course, some flowers. Now, looking from a distance at those extra-curricular school activities I appreciate them so much more.

After my early arrival in Amsterdam yesterday morning I settled in for a long wait until I found an email from Sietske that she was actually not in France for a change. She came to pick me up at 9 AM at our usual pick up place which we call the elbow (elleboog); it is the place where Hall 1 and Hall 2 come together and the drop off (departure) road veers off to the left. It is a popular pick up place for arrivals but there is always room for one more car and I can wait inside. It was the first time Sietske saw me since the accident. I am not sure what she expected but the way I walked up to her clearly surprised her. We tried to ignore the awful wet (and typical Dutch) weather and had coffee with a very Dutch treat, beschuit met (oude) kaas. We spent the next 3 hours catching up. We had not seen each other since last March or May when I came back either from Kenya or Swaziland. I showed my scars and my still slightly swollen ankle to her husband Doctor Piet and we talked about the experience of ‘suffering along’ (com-passion) via Caringbridge.

Back at the airport for my departure to Boston I stocked up on cheese, haring and licorice to replenish dwindling supplies at home and called as many of my family and friends as my Dutch cell phone credit allowed. I hoped to get Sita on the phone from somewhere in Switzerland. It is a place that is full of memories of vacations from the late fifties to the mid seventies. I have not been back there since. I left a message on her cell phone. She was probably en route. I suspect that the chalet she is staying in is not as connected as she expects. After all, when people go to stay in a chalet in Switzerland it is to ski or hike, not to check their email. I cannot wait to get her insider’s view on the Davos Summit.

Today we are going to see Fatou and several old and young Waring School friends in Lynn. It will ease my transition from an all African diet to an American one because we will surely get something wonderful and African to eat today. Such meals are really odd in the middle of a cold and wintry landscape but I take Fatou’s food anytime and anyplace and it will be superior to much of the hotel food of the last two weeks

Black Stars and Yellow Boubous

I am writing from Schiphol very early morning. At this time, somewhere above the Atlantic approaching Europe, Sita is flying to the World Economic Forum in Davos. “She’s all kitted out with long undies, a silk ski mask, the over sized boots, 220 volt travel iron and everything she has to wear that fits in the category of dressing for success in Switzerland with galactic elites – all in durable basic black,” writes Axel who put her on the plane last night.

I had a good night sleep, falling into an exhausted sleep immediately after take off and waking up half an hour before landing. I am now waiting until it is a decent time to call Sietske so I can finally show her my scars.

Yesterday was supposed to have been a day of rest and relaxation but instead it turned into a full work day. We started off with a debriefing at USAID where we had the full attention of the Mission Director, his deputy, the HPN officer and a few others. We showed the video of the leadership program in Aswan which remains a moving story no matter I often I see it. We had a lively conversation about what is different about our program. With so many of these programs under our belt, I can be quite confident that important shifts will occur as a result. We brought the ADRA staff along to introduce them as the new leaders of the facilitator team.

From there we went to ADRA where we assembled the staff who had contributed to our successful launch. The night before we had printed certificates of appreciation for everyone, from the drivers to the country director. In a brief ceremony we thanked them for taking us in as if we were family and looking after us in ways that touched our souls. We exchanged presents and left with some great Ghanaian music.

blackstar_feverr_sm.jpgFrom there we threw ourselves into traffic that had doubled in size since the previous week. The frenzy for the Africa Cup Football tournament is heating up. It was very apparent that the ships from China had arrived with all possible kinds of stuff that would add to the patriotism and nationalism that sport events of this magnitude tend to bring out. I imagined the factories in China running non stop for the last month to produce the thousands of flags, hats, badges, balls, umbrellas and whatnot that were now being hawked on the streets by colorfully bedecked young men and women. blackstar_fever2_sm.jpgThe pace was clearly picking up. We saw little of that last week and I suppose this was because the ships had not arrived yet.

It took us an hour to get to GIMPA, the Ghanaian Institute of Public Administration, a Harvard B-School wannabe for West Africa. Brian, on faculty at the School of Governance and Leadership, was one our facilitators and wildly enthusiastic about the program. The intent of visit was to meet the GIMPA leadership and talk about ways to work together on our collective mission to improve management and leadership in the public sector in Ghana. We met the Rector who gave us an autographed book about leadership and nation building and offered us lunch. After that Brian gave us a tour of the campus and the newly built executive conference center where we might have stayed if we had not found a hotel room. We were glad we had not stayed there even though it was beautiful; the trip back to Accra (only 16 km) took about one and a half hours. We were able to use that time productively, I by typing in the workshop evaluations and Cabul by catching up on some sleep.

Back at the hotel we sat down for our last big beer and talked about the two weeks, what went well, what did not and gave each other feedback. Susan Wright swung by to say goodbye and then Cabul and I had our final dinner together, a curry that he had raved about (and he knows about curries as one would expect from a Mehta).

At the airport I found a madhouse. Large buses were standing by to take all the top African football (soccer) teams that were flying in to their hotels; hawkers were everywhere and anybody who wanted to be away from the place before all hell breaks loose (Sunday) scrambled to get out. In the lounge I found some 24 men dressed in dazzling white and bright yellow boubous watching a game on TV and relaxing. I was trying to imagine who they were and why they were all dressed the same. I asked the attendant who told me it was the Mali national soccer team. They were magnificent. They were on their way to Kumasi, further north, where their pool was playing. As they filed out of the lounge I wished them ‘bonne chance.’img_1398.jpg I was too shy to take a picture of them but took a stealth picture of the lounge earlier. If you look carefully you can see the vibrant yellow. If they play as well as they look they will surely win, although the Ghanaian team (the Black Stars) is of course the favorite.

Best Among Equals

We are back at the Alisa hotel which has as its motto “The Best Among Equals.” This is a bit of a mind twister. I suspect what sets them apart from the other equals is that they have two Cerulean (blue) leather couches in the lobby that flank a Herculean air-conditioning apparatus. I am sitting on one of the couches to pick up the wireless that does not reach into my room this time. I am surrounded by myself because of all the mirrors.

In the 25 years that I have traveled to and in Africa, the continent has made great strides: wireless internet, cell phones, ATMs,  just to mention a few of the things that have made our lives easier while on the road in Africa. You know that you are getting old when all this was unimaginable when I made my first trip across Africa in the late 70s. On the other hand, traffic jams were rare at the time, as is the more tangible pollution that goes with it.

Yesterday we started our day at the beach, having another breakkfast with a view. It seems that the beach resort is much frequented by the Dutch since the little library in the restaurant consisted mostly of Dutch books. This was perfect as I was in need of a new book. We read for a few hours, and swam in the best waves and water temperature one could wish for. Around noon we piled into the car with club sandwiches and limp but tasty French fries to return to Accra. It took several hours, especially the last few kilometers.

Susan had invited us for dinner at her house. She has spent much of her career in Francophone Africa, mostly West and we reminisced about places and people as old folks do (we did apologize to Cabul but he seems to enjoy it). We discovered that we all know Jerry Martin, among others.

Cabul and I completed the burning of CDs and we printed a set of certificates of appreciation for the staff of ADRA, from drivers to Country Director. Some twelve people have put their shoulders behind the launch of this program and in their various capacities contributed to the success of this first phase.

Today we are going for our debriefing at USAID this morning, then to ADRA, then to the Management Institute (GIMPA) which is at Legon University for lunch and then back to write reports and finish all that cannot wait. And then I am leaving for the airport, leaving Cabul behind who is still trying to get tickets to the Ghana-Guinea match or something else.

The best part of travel is going home.


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